| Keeping Tarantulas | ||
| KEEPING TARANTULAS The Tarantula, or Theraphosidae
to name it correctly, is one of the easiest animals to keep in captivity.
Of course, this does not mean that it can look after itself, but that the
conditions needed are within the resources of most people. This fact sheet
aims to provide a brief account on keeping tarantulas, but it is important
to obtain as much information as possible by reading further literature
(see the Society's List of Recommended Publications). HOUSING The size of tank is dependent on the size of tarantula, but a good size is 12 in (30 cm) long by 10 in (25 cm) wide by 8 in (20 cm) tall. Glass tanks are readily available and can be built to your own specifications. It is possible to construct your own tank using pre-cut glass and gluing it with an aquarium silicone sealer. This has the advantage that the tank can be purpose-built, especially if the spider is one of the tree-dwelling (arboreal) tarantulas, which need more height than ground space. It is important that all tanks have a close-fitting lid. HEATING As most tarantulas are from tropical climates, you will find that some form of heating will be required at some time. A minimum temperature of 68degF should be maintained, although, as a general rule, a temperature of 70degF to 75degF should be aimed for. The majority of centrally-heated houses are warm enough for most of the year, but a heating system should be installed during the winter. Underground heating is another alternative. Garden centre, DIY shops and even some chemists can supply foil heating pads, heating cables, heating mats and even seed incubators/cabinets with heating elements integrally fixed which, when thermostatically controlled, provide a good source of heat. These methods have the advantage that they supply a uniform source of heat from the base of the tank and set up a simple water cycle, the water evaporating then condenses on the sides of the tank. Burrowing tarantulas are also able to construct underground chambers that have a warm humid environment within. The humidity in the tank is also very important and a humidity gauge should be included as part of the basis equipment. The majority of tarantulas die during moulting, as a result of the humidity being too low. Humidity of 40% should be maintained, with tropical species a minimum of about 55%, otherwise it may lead to the desiccation of your tarantula. Do not be fooled by book illustrations of tarantulas in desert environments, if you try to keep yours in a similar environment it will die. Choose the substrate used very carefully as this will help in raising the humidity. Forest bark will hold moisture quite well without becoming over-wet, although has the disadvantage that it provides an excellent place for fungi to grow. Artificial mediums such as Perlag, Hortag and Vermiculite can be used as they not only retail a great deal of moisture, but are easily sterilised to prevent growth of fungi. Preferably, and for a more natural substrate, Irish Moss Peat is recommended, but take care that it does not become infested with mites by becoming over-damp. In environments housing arboreal species, pieces of dead tree branches must be included in order for them to construct their webs. Bog wood and cork bark can also be used. FEEDING In the wild, tarantulas will eat most types of insects which makes them reasonably easy to feed. Although it is quite feasible to feed them on any insect that happens to be in season, care must be taken not to feed tarantulas any insects that may have come into contact with insecticides or fertilisers. It is probably easier to obtain food from a retail outlet, as you can be sure that it has not been chemically treated. Locusts, crickets, cockroaches and even moths, caterpillars and other insects are quite often available. Do not try to feed them ants, woodlice, beetles and other spiders, as this may lead to problems, including the death of your tarantula! WATER Water is something a tarantula cannot do without for any length of time. It should be provided in an open shallow dish which should be kept clean and the water changed daily. A few of the arboreal species may prefer to drink from droplets on the side of the tank, something easily achieved by lightly spraying with a play spray. This, of course, also provides some of the essential humidity which a tarantula requires. CLEANING Tarantulas do not take too kindly to being cleaned out, as they are very clean animals anyway. Waste food is neatly packaged in a web and excrement dries to a white powder. This is easily wiped from the sides of the tank. Cleaning should take place twice a year, the tank being washed and wiped thoroughly. The water dish should be kept clean at all times. MOULTING Most tarantula fatalities occur during the moult (sloughing) and are due basically to 2 things:- 1 The humidity within the tank is so low that the tarantula cannot shed its skin properly, either getting stuck in the old skin or exhausting itself in the process. 2 The tarantula is disturbed before the new exoskeleton has had time to harden correctly. If you find your tarantula lying on its back motionless, it is shedding, something it needs to do in order to grow. Leave it alone, but remove any food in the bank and check the temperature and humidity. The process may take a few hours and afterwards the tarantula will be exhausted, the mouth parts too soft to take food and, therefore, vulnerable. During shedding, it is likely that any missing limbs will have been regenerated. In fact, a tarantula may not eat for a number of weeks after shedding. Prior to shedding, it will go off its food probably a few weeks before the event and a bald patch may develop on the abdomen. Young Tarantulas may moult 2 or 3 times a year, adults possibly once a year. All is dependent on the conditions under which it is kept. HANDLING Tarantulas do not really appreciate handling, they tolerate it. If a tarantula is dropped on to the ground, it will die. Also, there is a risk of the tarantula biting you if provoked. Therefore, it is recommended not to handle them. Usually, the only problems experienced after being bitten by a tarantula are through secondary infections, through wounds not being cleaned properly and if allergic to insect bites and stings. Slight discomfort, possibly reddening and irritation may be felt on occasions. However, recent research suggests that more aggressive species, particularly from Africa and the Far East, have more powerful venom and can thus produce more severe symptoms. The hairs on some tarantulas are known as urticating hairs, that is to say they can be broken off by the tarantula with ease and used as a defence mechanism. In individuals who are sensitive to these hairs, symptoms of itching, rashes and sneezing have been experienced. |
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