DODGE CARAVAN
This page provides brief advice on usability and reliability of the Dodge Caravan, which was also sold as the Chrysler Town & Country and Plymouth Voyager (Chrysler Voyager in later years). I focus on the version produced in the early 1990s (through the 1995 model year), which has most of the inner structure of the original version. Later models may have substantial changes in the body structure, which might affect packaging-related factors. My experience is with a 1994 model, FWD, 3.3 litre engine, 4-speed electronically-controlled AT, with rear hear-A/C, high trim/options (lower body trim, lighting/sound/power openings/trip computer options).
Table Of Contents
Space
Ride
Bumpers vs curbs
Tire chains
3.0 LITRE ENGINE
3.3 & 3.8 LITRE ENGINE
Engine size
Transmission
Air conditionning
Remote key system
Theft
Servicing
Spark plug replacement
Alternator replacement
Valve cover seals
Drive belt
Parking brake pedal replacement
Door adjustment
Hidden relay panel
More hidden things (another relay panel, body computer, air bag module)
Service manual
Fuel filter
Ball joints
Trouble codes
Headlight cover
Front door lining removal
Rear hatch lining removal, release solenoid, license plate lights
Heater fan
Spare tire hoist
Do your homework
SPACE
The defining attribute of the Caravan was interior space in a low height package (so it would fit into standard car garages).
RIDE
To get that low height, suspension travel is limited. Thus ride on anything but smooth pavement is rough. It is quite nice on smooth pavement, depending in part on the tires. My experience is with the single leaf rear springs - the multi-leaf heavy-duty rear suspension may be worse, and the all-wheel-drive suspension may be somewhat different.
BUMPERS VS CURBS
Some bumper shrouds are closer to the ground (the fancy lower body trim package is closer to the ground). They catch on parking lot blocks that are higher than normal, the shroud rides over it but gets damaged when it catches as you back out of the spot. Ideally Chrysler's designers should have rounded the aft edge of the shroud so it would ride over the blocks both directions. You can replace the sacrificial pop rivets holding the aft side onto the frame, and put a strap over broken tabs, but the shroud may break at the ends of the slot opening in the front. Repair of that could cost several hundred dollars: a rebuilt shroud, paint work to match your colour, and remove & replace labour.
TIRE CHAINS
The tight packaging design resulted in limited clearance between the front tires and the front suspension struts, thus making use of traction chains difficult.
With the larger tires common in the 1990s (P205/70R15) you must use low-profile chains, install them the right way around to lay flatter against tire sidewall, tighten them, and drive slowly.
Note that the shape of cable chains vary somewhat, especially with newer types being introduced - simply specifying "cable" or "radial" chains is not enough. You want simple ones with low-profile joints, space class S (not W or U or larger) - or preferably slimmer than space class S, such as the basic cable and Z-cable chains made by Shure Chain. Those are slim chains: 10mm, whereas the already slim S class limit is 15mm. Definitely cable chains, not conventional link chain. (The Z chain runs the cables diagonally across the tread for better performance with anti-lock brakes compared to the standard ladder-style cable chain.
Friends have an alternative, an assembly of plastic grips that clamp onto the wheel from the outside with minimal projection over the inner shoulder, named something like Spider Spikes.
3.0 LITRE ENGINE
The Mistubishi 3.0 litre V-6 engine is prone to premature wearout of valve guides and seals. People advise that if it is smoking you should expect to need to replace the guides, not just the seals as you might get away with on other engines.
Rebuilding both heads is expensive. However, as a silent-shaft OHC design the engine may be desirable, though it has a distributor thus more tuneup parts than the Chrysler engine.
3.3/3.8 LITRE ENGINE
The Chrysler 3.3/3.8 litre V-6 engine is a conventional pushrod design with the cam in the block. Less costly to make, and providing torque which is useful in a big heavy vehicle, but lacking the silent shaft thus not as smooth in some driving conditions. It has electronic fuel injection and distributorless ignition.
Unfortunately it is a stuff job in the body structure which is really the original 1980s structure with gussied up exterior, so working on it is very time-consuming - especially as Chrysler did not relocate things like A/C plumbing and brake lines to maximize clearance for working on the engine.
ENGINE SIZE
The Caravan was available with a 4-cylinder engine, but I expect it is rare except in the early years, as for a large vehicle it was low on power.
Mileage on level highways is surprisingly good in my experience, confirmed by others. (It does have sensible front-end aerodynamic shape.) This is a good freeway cruiser, efficient and roomy. Less useful around town due rough suspension, weight thus fuel consumption, and difficulty parking because you cannot see the rear corners (the body sides have a subtle curvature sufficient to obscure the rear corners - no discrete bumper ends to see, the Caravan is worse than the much longer Dodge Maxivan).
If you have the long body and heavy options like LH sliding door on newer models, load it with people, and climb hills you may find the 3.8 litre engine the best due to its greter torque. But don't abuse that light transmission underneath it.
Note however that the front-wheel-drive vans like the Caravan are not good trailer-towing vehicles. I suggest a truck-based design like the Chevrolet Astro/GM Safari or larger for durability (the Caravan and its competitors such as the Chevrolet Lumina/Montana use beefed up versions of car components in their drive-trains, the Astro & kin use pickup truck components). Though I might be tempted by the new rear-wheel-drive performance sedans from Chrysler. :-) Naw, I think heft is good for towing - wonder if I could find a 1950s Chrysler 300 with a Hemi or similar biggie under the hood. (A dually pick-em-up is so "common" these days. ;-)
TRANSMISSION
The 4-speed automatic had reliability problems, from two primary causes arising from its light-weight design:
- fatigue of rotating components (fixed in later years)
- abuse (spinning wheels on icy pavement is risky, as the shock loading from hitting a dry patch is severe).
Chrysler improved the transmission over the first few years of production, so the 1995 model is good as long as it has not been abused.
In general the high degree of electronic control in this transmission works well. It is somewhat prone to malfunction from poor electrical connections - so before panicking check that the ground wires are electrically well attached. (One may be on a sub-frame at the left end of the transmission.)
Some owners have noticed a bit of jumpiness at very low speeds, perhaps due to the transmission not down-shifting all the way when the vehicle slows gradually to a stop thus having to downshift when it starts moving again. That is not of much concern, supposedly fixed in later versions.
The lock-up converter clutch housing may crack, leaking fluid thus not locking up strongly enough. Modified transmission programming may raise the lockup speed so it is not excercised as much on arterial streets. Of course the clutch friction surface will wear, as will other clutches in the automatic transmission.
AIR CONDITIONNING
The A/C components are not as reliable as desired, though it is a tough job - lots of glass area, and some vehicles have a rear condensor but the same single compressor.
REMOTE KEY SYSTEM
With remote key fobs for any vehicle you should be careful not to sit on the fob. Some Caravan fobs required only a single press to unlock the rear hatch - a dealer should be able to reprogram that to require two presses.
THEFT
Thieves like the Caravan because it is easy to steal, innocent looking, and after the easy-unlatch seats are thrown out can carry lots of stolen stuff.
I recommend using a good steering wheel lock, such as the Club, and desirably an anti-theft system of the immobilizing type (plus noisemaker as you also want to slow down those who would break in and grab the contents).
Note that most vans do not have the lockable trunk that cars do, and the flush windows on the Caravan are easy to break open. (Praise to Chrysler for introducing wells in the floor on their newest models, at least with their stowing-seats option - I hope they are lockable.)
SERVICING
I presume you have a Chrysler service manual. Here I provide information not well covered in it. Some of the access I cover here is in the service manual if you can find it, often not in the section you'd expect it in - for example, check both the dash/instrument panel and specific-item sections.
(Among the tools you'll need are Torx screwdrivers, including size 20 for the grill/lights area, and small metric wrenches such as 7 and 8mm for dash and small electrical.)
SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT
See my separate page to so you can remove and replace the engine spark plugs. Be prepared to go underneath the vehicle with it raised several inches, and with the less common tools detailed in that page. Yes, underneath!
VALVE COVER SEAL LEAKS
See my separate page on to so you can tighten the valve cover bolts to reduce leakage. Another underneath job. (I have not faced the question of how one would replace the seals - I wimped out and had a shop do it when they were in the engine bay for other reasons.
ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENT
See my separate page to so you can remove and replace the engine alternator. Be prepared to go underneath the vehicle with it raised several inches, and with the less common tools detailed in that page. Yes, underneath!
VALVE COVER SEAL LEAKS
See my separate page on to so you can tighten the valve cover bolts to reduce leakage. Another underneath job. (I have not faced the question of how one would replace the seals - hopefully they'll be adequate for the life of the engine - as I paid a shop to do it while other work was beng done.
ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
See my separate page to so you can replace the engine accessory drive belt and prevent it from popping off in heavy rain or snow. Be prepared with the less common tools detailed in that page.
PARKING BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY
See my separate page to so you can fix wear or replace it. An adventure that will reveal hidden goodies of electrical nature.
DOOR ADJUSTMENT/SAG
See my separate page to so you can adjust door sag and learn of a fatigue problem. Be prepared with the uncommon tools detailed in that page.
HIDDEN RELAY PANEL
And another poor access design feature is hiding a secondary relay panel in the left side of the dash (never mind that the service manual says center). Disconnect the parking brake release handle, remove five screws holding the lower dash left cover panel, remove four screws holding a strong-looking metal cover - and there they are! Lighting, rear hatch, rear heater & A/C, and a few other functions are hidden there. It is called “Relay Block”, diagram AS-HK 151 of the wiring diagrams in section 8W of the service manual (page 8W-206 of the one I have).
MORE HIDDEN THINGS
are revealed when you try to service the cigar lighter power socket in the centre dash area If you wondered where certain relays and modules were, voila!
I suspect the modules are:
- "body computer" (which the service manual claims is "right of the steering column"), probably with one blue and one natural colour 25-contact connector
- an airbag module (which the service manual claims is in the "centre rear of instrument panel"), with one yellow 4-contact connector and one black 13-contact connector.
(Supposedly the transmission control module is on the right firewall forward side or RH fender shield (without and with 4WD), the ABS module if installed is well below the power centre (underhood LH), and a "powertrain control module" is immediately under the power centre location aka "LH fender shield (that module being what is called the "engine computer" by those of us who think the powertrain is both engine and transmission - note the transmission computer is a late addition to the Caravan). I suspect the more sealed and securely mounted module is the airbag one.
The relays are the "micro relay block" shown in the service manual's component location diagram, wiring diagram AS-HK 152, which covers power doors, windows and seats as well as fog lamps and a "name brand speakers relay" - diagram claims location is "right side of I.P.".
(A relay for speakers? yes, on the wiring diagram for radio "with NBS". It feeds power to the optional speakers in the front doors and liftgate, which apparently require a power feed to them unlike regular speakers. In my vehicle those speakers are labelled Infinity, as is the radio. They are powerful.)
For heater blower and right vacuum actuator information, refer to the centre & right dash area page.
SERVICE MANUAL
While I'm on about deficiencies in the manual, note that the rear quarter window motor is behind the rear edge of the window not down forward on top of the wheelwell.
OTHER SERVICING
FUEL FILTER
The forward fuel filter is under the right side of the body between front and rear wheel areas. Note that the Chrysler part is wrapped with impact-resisting tape to minimize damage from rocks thrown up by the front wheels and insulate the filter from exhaust system heat, whereas the ones sold by Canadian Tire and Fram are not.
BALL JOINTS
Chrysler's procedure for checking ball joint wear is different from what shops are used to. I don't know if it is better or worse than the traditional way - only that shops seem to have difficulty finding the looseness that I can feel from the driver's seat. With weight on wheels you simply try to wiggle the grease nipple, per the Chrysler procedure.
TROUBLE CODES
Through 1995 the Caravan and siblings used the "OBD I" diagnostic code system.
You can read the stored codes as flashes of the Service Engine light, by turning the ignition key on then off then on then off then on. Unlike other brands you do not need to jumper a connector to see the flashes, just use the ignition key sequence.
Refer to the service manual or Allpar.com for the format and a list of codes. Note that one code will always be seen to indicate that the computer and light circuit are working and to help distinguish between repeats of the code list.
Recognize that the codes are only a good start for diagnosis - you may have to think through the function of the part or system that the code points to and test some parts. (The specific meaning of some codes varies with model year.)
The transmission computer stores data, probably requiring test equipment to read it. The computer can be reprogrammed - you might consider having that done by a dealer as factors such as the torque converter clutch lock-up have been changed. (Lockup speed was raised to reduce wear on the clutch, as it was coming on and off on arterial streets (with speed limit of 40 mph, but common practice of driving a few mph faster, the vehicle was often fluctuating around the original lockup speed.)
HEADLIGHT COVER
Refer to the Headlight Cover Replacement page. The new headlight covers I purchased in 1994 suck in water!
DOOR LINING FRONT
Refer to the Door trim removal page.
REAR HATCH LINING INCL UNLATCH SOLENOID & LICENSE PLATE LIGHTS
Refer to the Rear hatch lining page.
HEATER FAN
Refer to the Heater Fan page.
SPARE TIRE HOIST
The cable may rust, potentially dropping your tire on the road in the path of another vehicle. The hoist is replaceable as an assembly, not a difficult job though you should put penetrant on bolts before starting. Take money to your Chrysler/Dodge dealer and they'll sell you a hoist.
RADIO
Here are removal instructions for radio and speakers. On that site you can find some radio repair instructions, including inoperative display.
And on http://www.allpar.com you can find instructions to tweak the single-CD player to better play recorded discs.
DO YOUR HOMEWORK!
This is not a site to answer simplistic questions like "the shop says my brakes need replacing at 30,000 km - is that normal?".
Please do your homework, in three respects:
Review available sources of information, such as:
- Consumers Reports magazine summaries
- AllData.com offers lists of Service Bulletins and advice services
- AllPar.com has reference files and a question forum (but do your homework first to get maximum benefit)
Equip yourself with information and tools if you think you can do some diagnosis yourself (knowledge has value)
- in addition to the web sites listed above, try autodata.com for manuals that list trouble codes and check a good auto parts store for books by companies like Haynes
- you may be able to look up individual OBDII codes at http://www.actron.com/code_lookup.php
- get the factory service manual for your vehicle
Choose your repair shop wisely
Competence, honesty, and willingness to communicate with you are essential.
© Keith Sketchley Page version 2008.02.22 (1321PST)
Please advise Keith if any links don't work or have become inappropriate - the Internet changes.