This Madrid/Barcelona trip also includes a flight from Madrid to Barcelona. Both hotels were centrally located, modern, and were European four-star facilities. The hotel in Madrid was the Hotel Mayorazgo at Flor Baja 3, which is a little street right off the Grand Via.
GoAhead Vacations does not work with travel agencies and the client deals directly with their Travel Consultants. I found the Activity Coordinators in each city to be friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful. They were at the hotels at the times designated each day and had additional information about other excursions offered by this company, such as optional trips to Toledo or Montserrat.
This is not a vegetable market but rather a flea market. One street may be devoted to the selling of artwork, while the next one sells birds and other small pets. There are restaurants along the streets where you can get a bite to eat, an ice cream, or something to drink. We early established the habit of having a "helado" (ice cream) at least once a day to help cool us off as well as to help stave off the munchies. We also tried to drink lots of water so that we did not become dehydrated with all the walking. This is a dry climate and is warm in the summer time, although I did not find it to be as hot and muggy as we were used to in our homes in Florida. That was a welcome relief!
Upon returning to our hotel, we found that our rooms were ready and the bags were delivered to us there. Our room was not fancy but was neat and clean, came equipped with a hair dryer, a minibar, a TV and was air-conditioned--all the necessary amenities! We met Antonio in the restaurant and had a bite to eat as he briefed us and the other four people who had arrived later in the morning. We chose not to take any of the optional excursions but wanted to visit Toledo on our own by going on the bus that runs several times a day from Madrid's new bus station at Mendez de Alvaro. Madrid has a wonderful underground Metro and there's a stop right at the bus station.
Our trip was made during the time the World Cup was being played and soccer is an important sport in Spain. Each of the outdoor restaurants in the Plaza had a TV set up for the patrons to watch the game as they had their meals or "tapas." Tapas are basically a bar snack but are actually a miniature version of dishes that you can find in restaurants or in Spanish homes. The tradition originated in Andalucia, where the heat and poverty of the region made it impractical to have a large meal in a restaurant. Today, tapas are usually considered to be appetizers before lunch or supper but in many places they are eaten as a meal in themselves. We thought we would have tapas as our evening meal because as Americans we are used to eating dinner much earlier than the typical Spanish dinner hour of 10PM.
One very helpful pointer given to us by Antonio was to purchase a "billete de diez" ticket for the Metro instead of buying a ticket each time we rode the trains. This 10-ride ticket cost 600-700 pesetas at the time of my trip, which was approximately $3-$4, and it can be used by everyone in your group. It's much less expensive than buying the tickets for one-way trips (130 pesetas each) if you are going to use the Metro a lot, as we did. Also, you don't have to waste time standing in lines at the ticket booths each time you ride.
This brings me to a discussion of Spanish cuisine. We were on a budget, of course, and preferred to spend our money on our experiences and purchases rather than to visit the expensive restaurants. However, we found it difficult to find food that we could enjoy. I don't want to insult anyone by my comments--they were simply our experiences, tempered by our individual tastes and customs. We wanted to experience the typical foods and culture of Spain so did not eat at places like McDonald's or Burger King, although these places were frequented by the Spanish people who live in the city.
Another idiosyncrasy of my group is that we do not eat a lot of fried foods and prefer seafood or poultry instead of meat. Much of the Spanish food that we saw was fried, including the seafood, or consisted of pork or beef dishes. We were hoping to find fresh seafood, especially in Barcelona, but the custom is to serve the shrimp, fish, etc, complete with their heads, an idea we could not adapt to. The paella was good and the breads were delicious.
Our last day in Madrid began with a visit to Real Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales. This 16th-century building was restricted for 200 years to women of royal blood, who brought their dowries of riches with them when they took the veil. The convent was founded by Juana of Austria, whose daughter supposedly shut herself up here rather than to endure a marriage to Felipe II.
In spite of the riches contained here, the nuns were forbidden to auction anything off even though they became very poor. Eventually, the pope granted permission to open the convent as a museum. Although the tapestries and other artwork were beautiful, the tour was conducted only in Spanish. This may not ordinarily have presented a problem, as both I and my cousin speak this language; however, our guide spoke very rapidly and we missed much of what was being said. Admission was 650 pesetas (about $4).
We then took a quick trip on the Metro to the Prado. The Paseo del Prado is a beautiful street, very wide and with lots of huge shade trees. We enjoyed the respite from the sun and it would have been lovely to sit for a while if there had been a nearby cafe. The entrance fee for the Prado was 400 pesetas (about $2.50) and it is closed on Mondays. We took the advice of Rick Steves and decided to concentrate on the Spanish masters for our first visit there. There were some beautiful Italian rooms we wandered into also but you will become dazed if you try to see this entire museum in one visit.
We had an early-morning flight to Barcelona and again our Activity Coordinator was there to transfer us and our baggage to the airport and make sure we were on our way without difficuty. As in most of Europe, there are no baggage handlers in the airports. They do have carts but you must maneuver them yourself, so it pays to pack as lightly as possible.
The day we arrived there (June 24) was a holiday--for what, we were not sure--so again many of the sites were closed. We decided to relax in the square, listen to the music, and find a nearby outdoor cafe. The Plaça de Catalunya is Barcelona's banking and transport center and is at the head of Les Rambles.
Another helpful hint: the Metro in Barcelona does not run as late as the one in Madrid, so be sure to check on the time it stops running and keep an eye on your watch or you will miss the last train as we did. This boardwalk extends out to the Moll d'Espanya, which has a shopping center, IMAX theatre and a new aquarium. On the day I was there, there was a market on Les Rambles, with booths of crafts, as well as the outdoor seating for the cafes in the area.
Throughout the day we saw many tour buses unloading tourists and we were glad we had arrived early. I was disappointed not to be able to take one of the funicular rides to the Santa Cova (Holy Grotto), the alleged site of the discovery of the Black Virgin. I kept forgetting about the siesta time in Spain, so the ride was closed at the time I chose to make the trip. Another hint: Be sure to note when these siesta times are for the sites you want to see, as they vary from place to place, here as well as in other sites in Barcelona and Madrid.
I and my two friends arrived fairly rested in Madrid very early on a Sunday morning and were immediately greeted by our Activity Coordinator, Antonio. He arranged for us to be transferred to the hotel and accompanied us there to make sure that our rooms were in order. Since we had arrived so early in the day, our rooms were not ready yet but Antonio had our luggage safely stored away so that we could get on with our sightseeing before again meeting with him at the hotel to be given the additional information about the trip.
We chose to go to El Rastro, since we had arrived on a Sunday and that day is traditionally the busiest day at this outdoor market. I would advise going as early in the day as possible because it gets more and more crowded as the day progresses until it becomes a pedestrian traffic jam. The streets at the market are closed to car traffic but are hilly and become difficult to navigate when you're also having to dodge the people. I think this is a good way to become acquainted with the city because everyone comes here to visit as well as to shop for bargains at the stalls set up in the streets.
After a short nap, that night we took the Metro to the Plaza del Sol stop and walked a short distance to Plaza Mayor, which we had discovered on our morning wanderings. It turned out to be one of our favorite places in Madrid. The plazas in Spain are like huge, outdoor living rooms where everyone gathers to eat, drink, and mostly to visit with each other.
The Plaza Mayor was one of our favorite places in all of Madrid and seems to be the heart of the city. We were especially enchanted by it at night with its sidewalk cafes, the portrait artists painting or selling their pictures, the street musicians and the performers. Prior to becoming the Plaza Mayor, this site was occupied by a city market, which is probably why it has no church or cathedral as is typical of the Spanish and Italian plazas. It is one of the largest public squares in Europe and was designed by Juan de Herrera, who was the architect to Felipe II and the man who designed the El Escorial monastery outside of Madrid. It was completed in 1620 and has been used for all manner of events from bull fights to criminal executions to royal marriages. We thought one of its most beautiful buildings is the Casa de la Panaderia, which is the oldest building on the square and is covered with brightly painted murals.
The next morning we got up early and headed for the Royal Palace (Palacio Real). This was built on the spot where Madrid's first Arab fortress stood in the 9th century. We spent the entire morning at this palace because it was so beautiful and is also very large, with its many rooms and spacious parade grounds.
It is possible to take a tour conducted in English but we decided to go at our own pace. If you have a good tour book to take along, you can appreciate better what you are looking at inside the palace. My favorite room was the Porcelain Room, made of ceramics adorning the ceiling and walls. You can also visit the Royal Library, the Music Museum, the Royal Armory, and the Royal Pharmacy, which fascinated us because many of the vials and flasks still hold the herbal concoctions prepared by the physicians in their treatment of the royal family ailments. At the time of my visit, admission to the palace was 850 pesetas, or around $5. We chose to make this visit on Monday because many of the other museums and sites are closed on Mondays. From the parade grounds you have a magnificent view of the city and of the mountain passes leading into Madrid.
We made a quick stop at our hotel to drop off the purchases we had made in the morning and again took the Metro to Mendez Alvaro, where the bus station is. Helpful hint: you want the Galiano-Continental bus line when going to Toledo. You want to be sure to know which window to go to because many of the ticket agents do not speak English. We had originally wanted to buy a ticket for an hour in advance so that we could grab a quick bite to eat at the bus station. The ticket agent misunderstood my question about this and we almost missed our bus before I realized that our tickets were for the next bus leaving in just a few minutes. The tickets are for a specific time as well as for a specific seat on the bus. The buses leaving on the hour are Express buses and do not stop at the many small towns between Madrid and Toledo.
It took only about an hour to arrive in Toledo, where we took a taxi into the town because it is a fairly steep climb if you choose to walk. The taxi is cheap and lets you off right inside the town at the Plaza de Zocodover, which is the main square. We rested at a small outdoor cafe, where we had a relaxing cold drink and a snack to eat. One thing we noticed about the waiters in Spain, they serve your meals fairly quickly but then leave you alone and it is difficult to get their attention if you want anything else such as salt, more water to drink, or even your check. On several occasions we ended up going inside the cafe to settle our bill because we wanted to continue with our exploring.
Although Toledo is a small town, it would be helpful to have a fairly detailed map because, as we proved, it is possible to get very lost in the winding streets. We located the cathedral, with its primarily 13th century architecture. This cathedral contains many magnificent pieces of art but don't miss seeing the sacristy, where a number of El Grecos are to be found. There is also a display of the elaborate robes and jewels worn by the cardinals and bishops of this Catholic church. The church cost 500 pesetas (about $3-$4) to enter and is open on Mondays, which some of the other sites are not.
We often got sidetracked by the quaint shops lining some of the narrow streets there in Toledo and did not want to miss the beautiful damascene work created only in this town. It pays to compare prices because we found the same sort of items at various prices in different shops. We enjoyed just wandering around the streets here, which was just as well because we spent a large part of the time lost!
Both the Alcazar and the Museo de la Santa Cruz, where El Greco's "Assumption of 1613" is displayed, were closed since it was a Monday. That's something to consider when you are planning your visit; however, our time was limited in Madrid to only three days and it was difficult to fit in everything we wanted to do. We took the last bus back to Madrid and had a late snack of one of the favorite dishes we had discovered--"tortillas." This is an omelet of onions and potatoes and is generally eaten cold. We had it for breakfast every day at our hotel but also at other times for lunch or even for dinner.
We had an enjoyable afternoon there and then took the Metro to Parque del Oeste and rode the Teleferico (aerial cable car), which goes from just above the Rosaleda gardens to the center of Casa de Campo. You get off at a lovely restaurant with a large open deck from which you can look down on Madrid. It was absolutely beautiful there and we made some wonderful panoramic photos. The Casa de Campo also contains a zoo and an amusement park but if you want to get to these sites you will have a walk of about a mile from where the cable car lets you off. A round-trip ride on the Teleferico was 515 pesetas (about $4) and one-way takes about 11 minutes.
The Casa de Campo is the former royal hunting grounds and also contains a lake and a municipally-operated pool. By this time, we were in need of a short nap and a shower before returning to Plaza Mayor for our last night in Madrid. We chose an outdoor cafe and enjoyed sitting in the cool air, watching the entertainers in the plaza. It was a relaxing end to our whirlwind stay there.
We arrived in Barcelona after a short one-hour flight and were met by the Activity Coordinator there, Anna, who whisked us off to our hotel. The hotel in Barcelona was the Hotel Expo, Mallorca 1-23. It was convenient to the main train station as well as to a Metro stop. Again, we chose to "do our own thing" rather than to take advantage of the optional tours.
After settling in, we went to the nearby Metro stop and took the Metro to the central square, Plaça Catalunya. This is an absolutely breathtaking square! There are fountains, big trees, men selling balloons, pigeons as in St. Mark's Square in Venice, and groups playing music.
Later I ventured alone to the foot of Les Rambles at Portal de la Pau. There I found the Columbus Monument. This was erected at the harborfront on the occasion of the Universal Exhibition of 1888. The column rises 167 feet and you can take the elevator up to the mirador, where you can see a panoramic view of Barcelona and the harbor (another opportunity to use my panoramic camera!). Admission was 225 pesetas (about $1.80).
In the port beyond the Columbus Monument is an ornate Duana, or former customs building, and the Rambla de Mar. This is a sliding boardwalk, which supposedly is taken up at night to allow boats in and out of the inner harbor. I'm not sure at what time this happens because we were there until fairly late at night and did not see this.
The next morning we took the train to Montserrat, which is about 35 miles west of Barcelona. Pilgrimages are made here to view La Moreneta, the Black Virgin of Montserrat. A monastery has stood on the site since the early Middle Ages. The present buildings, however, date from the 19th century, replacing the ruins left by Napoleon's troops in 1812.
Although you can reach the site by a road, we thought the combined train/aerial cableway would be more exciting. We decided to take the first train, which left Barcelona at 9AM. The station is at the Plaça de Espanya Metro stop and the line going to Montserrat is the Manresa line of the Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya. The round-trip cost was 1770 pesetas, which is approximately $12-$13. You must pay attention and get off at the correct stop to connect with the cableway, Aeri de Montserrat. The trip takes about an hour, not counting the cableway ride. It is a spectacular way to reach the monastery, which is atop a 4,000-foot mountain.
One of the noted attractions of the monastery is the 50-member Escolania (boys' choir), which is one of the oldest and most renowned in Europe, dating from the 13th century. Each day at 1:00PM, you can hear them sing in the basilica, which is open daily also and is free. The Black Virgin is inside the basilica but on the day I was there a long line had formed to view her so I saw her only from afar.
We did hear the boys' choir and also visited the Museu de Montserrat, which houses paintings by El Grecco, Caravaggio, Dali, Monet, and Degas. It also contains displays of ancient artifacts such as mummies, pottery, statues, etc. I was especially impressed with the crocodile mummy and the cat mummy--reflecting my fascination for the bizarre! The museum cost 500 pesetas (about $3.50) admission and is well worth every penny.
It would have been a good idea to pack a lunch to take on this trip but we neglected to do so. The area is so beautiful that it would have added to the enjoyment if we could have picnicked outdoors. There is a cafeteria and a restaurant there, however, for those like us who didn't plan ahead. There is also a hotel for those lucky enough to be able to stay overnight. We went on a weekday, which I understand is much less crowded than on Sundays.
There is also a funicular ride to the highest peak, Sant Jeroni, as well as several hiking trails. The cablecar back down to the train leaves only at certain times, coordinated with the train schedule, so it would be a good idea to check those times as you arrive. After arriving back in Barcelona, we went to the Plaça Portal de la Pau, where the marina area is, and explored some of the shops and cafes.
The next morning, my group separated and my cousin and her 15-year-old daughter went to the Parc Zoologic, while I took in the Cathedral de Barcelona and Gaudi's La Sagrada Familia. The zoo is ranked as Spain's top zoo and has as one of its most unusual attractions the famous albino gorilla, Snowflake, which is the only one of its kind in captivity. Admission to the zoo is 1000 pesetas (approximately $7).
Barcelona's cathedral (Catedral de la Seu) is located in the Barri Gotic, the Gothic district which is the old aristocratic quarter of the town. Some parts of it survive from the Middle Ages and contain Roman ruins and 3rd-century walls. The cathedral was begun at the end of the 13th century and was completed in the mid-15th century. Admission to the cathedral was free but there was a 100 peseta (70 cent) charge to go into the museum.
I thought that the most beautiful part of this Gothic church was its cloister. Here, vaulted galleries surround a garden of magnolias, palm trees and other plants. It also contains a museum of medieval art.
Supposedly, at noon on Sundays you can see a "sardana" (the Catalonian folk dance) performed in the cathedral's square; however, I wasn't lucky enough to be able to visit the church on a Sunday. I was enchanted by the white geese who live in the cloister and were used to protect the valuables of the church.
I next headed for the Church of the Holy Family (La Sagrada Familia), which was begun by Gaudi in 1882 and was still incomplete at his death in 1926. Work continues on this structure and I was surprised to see how much of it is still unfinished. I have since heard that it is projected that it will take until the mid-21st century to complete.
The church was spared during the Spanish Civil War (1936-39) and the work continued in 1940 but apparently there is always some sort of controversy going on that slows down the work. Current debates involve the sculptures on the western (Passion) facade. Gaudi completed the Chapel El Carmen and the crypt prior to his death and is buried in the crypt. I should have done my reading beforehand because at the time of my visit I was unaware of the crypt and so did not get to see that. Entrance to the church was 800 pesetas (about $6).
By this time, I was pretty tired and hungry so I located a sidewalk cafe near the church and had a snack while enjoying its view. During my lunch I decided to spend the afternoon exploring Gaudi's Park Güell. I took the Metro to the Lesseps stop and, since my guidebook said the park was only a 10-minute walk from the stop, I set out on foot. I should have paid attention to the part that specified "uphill"! If I had it to do over again, I would definitely spring for a taxi or search out a bus. Especially in the heat of the summer, the walk is very strenuous and definitely seemed longer than 10 minutes.
This park was originally intended as a hillside garden housing "subdivision" but only two of the houses were ever built. Gaudi himself lived in a house here from 1906 to 1926 and it is open as a house museum, containing some of his drawings, furniture he designed, and other decorations belonging to him. Admission was 300 pesetas (about $2.50). Entrance to the park is free.
The park is the home for Gaudi's famous mosaic lizard and has been described as a surrealist Disneyland. I found it fascinating! This man's talent and imagination boggles the mind. This was definitely one of the most memorable sites I visited on this trip to Spain. I regret that I did not have time to visit some of his other creations, such as the Casa Mila, which is his famous apartment house complex, and the Casa Batllo, which is now a private business office.
After meeting with my other two "traveling companions" back at the hotel, we again set out via the Metro to the harbor area (Drassanes) and took a tour of the harbor on board a Golondrina boat. There's not actually that much to see but it was a fun thing to do. We had dinner at a touristy place on the wharf, "Tapas," and missed the last Metro back to our hotel because we weren't aware that they stopped running at 11PM on weekdays. Luckily, there are cabs that frequent the port area.
Our last day in Barcelona was spent visiting Poble Espanyol, which is a Spanish village created for the 1929 Exhibition. It is located on Montjuïc and has reproductions of the local architectural styles of each province, along with shops containing the typical crafts and artisans of each of these provinces. Entrance was 850 pesetas (approximately $5) and we reached Montjuïc by taking the Metro and then a local bus. Remember, you can also use your T-2 Metro tickets for the buses.
I know that the buildings here were just reproductions, but I thought it was a unique place and also was wonderful for shopping for souvenirs to take to everyone at home. By this time, we were pretty tired so we bought sandwiches at a store near our hotel and went to a nearby park for a picnic.
A word of caution: Don't buy ready-made sandwiches here! I'm still not sure exactly what their ingredients were (it was supposed to be tuna) but whatever was there was soggy and not even the pigeons in the park would eat it. So much for our picnic idea! My suggestion would be to save some of the delicious bread, luncheon meats, and cheese from the breakfast buffet and use that for your picnics.
That night we returned to the beautiful Plaça Catalunya and again listened to a group playing music. Many of the people there were dancing or singing along. We saw the Hard Rock Cafe nearby and couldn't resist having our last night's meal there. This was a violation of our agreement to stick to the local cuisine but it was our last night in this country and we were celebrating our return to the good ol' USA. Also, we had to purchase the latest addition to our Hard Rock T-shirt collection!
The next morning, our dependable Travel Coordinator, Anna, shepherded us to the airport to catch our flight home. We certainly packed a lot into the nine days that we were gone. I came away with a list of places I want to see and things I want to do on a return trip to this beautiful country. The people are warm and friendly and I will take away with me a memory of its beautiful squares, where the people assemble to visit as in a huge living room. There is music and laughter and wonderful smells and the sound of children laughing. That's a memory you can't capture in a photograph--it's what makes traveling such a blessing. Can't wait for my next adventure!
Tourist Office of Spain:This site can provide you with information about attractions, shopping, entertainment, transportation, etc.
Softguide Madrid, City Guide:This site contains mucho information about accommodations and places to visit in the city.
Hotels & Travel in Spain:There are links to other cities in Spain at this site as well.
Lonely Planet Travel Guide for Spain:Lonely Planet's Travel Guide will help you plan your trip to Spain.
HotelSearch Spain:Access this site to search the database for over 13,000 accommodations in Spain.
Turisme de Barcelona:This site includes information on accommodations, gastronomy, culture and shopping.
timeout.com:This is a local travel guide for Barcelona with information on accommodations, entertainment, eating and drinking, sightseeing, shopping and more.
Barcelona On-Line:Here you can find information for visitors to Barcelona, including events, shopping and restaurants.
Madrid by All About Spain:This site contains useful information on Madrid and its many sights.
Madrid's Great Museums:Here you will find information about the museums in Madrid such as the Avenue of Art, the Prado, the Thyssen Bornemisza, and others.
Madrid Man's Yankee Home Page:Go here first to find much useful information to plan your visit to Madrid.
Toledo:In addition to information about Toledo, this site has sections on Spainish history and other cultural links.
France/Ireland/Canada
