As it is that festive time of year again, we are publishing here -by popular demand- some information on the Christmas season in Luxembourg. If you want to ask any questions, please don't hesitate to mail us on: tourism@luxuk.demon.co.uk
Around the end of November / beginning of December, the "Kleeschen" can be seen on many occasions as he comes to all the shops, and receives the children for photosessions. Legend has it that the "Kleeschen" brought back to life 3 children who were savagely killed by a butcher, ready to be turned into sausages. Being a good-natured children-loving sort of a guy, he promptly resurrected the kids with God's allmighty help ...
"Kleeschen", in fact, is none else but St. Nicholas. During the night of the 5th to the 6th December (his day) he and his counterpart "Hoùseker" (=Black Peter) enter the houses and bring the children presents in the guise of (originally oranges and nuts and the occasional pair of socks) toys which can range from simple Lego to complex computers. The children put out plates on which the legendary figures bestow their gifts. But already days beforehand they put their shoes on the windowsill or in front of their bedroom door, so that "Kleeschen" -who goes his rounds to check on children to see whether they deserve any presents- can drop chocolates and other sweets into them. Hoùseker is dressed in coarse black clothes and he carries sticks with which he is said to chastise naughty children.
As for Christmas itself, you can see that with "Kleeschen" around, Father Christmas has a lot of rivalry. In Luxembourg, the baby Christ actually brings the christmas gifts overnight, 'though the custom probably differs from family to family. In the early evening on Christmas Eve the whole family gathers around the Christmas tree for snacks and talks (A Christmas tree is almost a Must in our country). At midnight many a family goes to Midnight Mass, always a welcome excuse for children to stay up long. The presents which lie under the tree are opened either before or after church.
Since we have our own language in Luxembourg (Lëtzebuergesch), we say "Schéi Chrëschtdeeg" for "Merry Christmas", which transliterates into 'have nice christmas-days'.
Traditional foods over the Christmas period are "Stollen", a kind of fruit loaf with rum as cake and "Bûche de Noël" as icecream (both are in the shape of a log). On Christmas Day the traditional dinner often features Black pudding or civet of hare, or venison, or ..., but it may also consist of turkey like in Britain or the States (The main thing seems to be that there must be millions of calories). After the meal the whole family likes to go for a walk which is particularly nice if there is snow. Boxing Day is spent in a similar fashion, eg eating vast quantities of food, which is done -more often than not- whilst visiting friends and relatives.
During the weeks before Christmas, markets flourish all over the country selling dried flower arrangements, Christmas trees, candles, etc. This year the Christmas Market in Luxembourg City is held from December 7 to 24 on the "Place d'Armes" in the pedestrian centre of the city. From wooden huts that are set up on the tree-lined square, all sorts of christmassy goods are on sale: locally produced Arts and Crafts (candles, Christmas tree decorations, cribs, etc), and of course plenty of Food and Drink to warm you from the inside. The latter include the obligatory mulled wines, as well as the stronger stuff (eg schnaps, known as "Drëpp"). Foods on sale include various soups (with or without Mettwurscht [a local sausage speciality]), pancakes, Thüringer, ... , plus the unpronouncable: "Gromperekichelcher". The bandstand in the centre of the square is also in use: A whole host of local bands, fanfares, choirs, etc, are performing, bringing to life the true Christmas atmosphere. Luxembourg has seen the first snows for this year, so bets are on that it will once again be a "White Christmas".
Normally there are about 2 'open Sundays' before Christmas so that you can get the shopping done in your own time.
New
Year is very much celebrated on New Year's Eve. There are
a good dozen different "Bal"s (=Dancing) in Luxembourg-city,
and many more outside the capital. Around Midnight, fireworks
reign supreme in the skies, as many a family adds to the general
bangs and flashes. We don't so much sing "Auld Lang Syne",
'though of course some gatherings do. The New Year itself is brought
in by champagne corks mixing into the general fireworks clatter.
There is a lot of kissing and hugging amongst the well-wishing
for the New Year, which is of course at midnight sharp.There is hardly anybody who would not socialise on New Year's Eve, and if there is no family to go to, you can always join one of the dancing crowds, or join one of the many parties that are held all over the country. In fact it often is quite difficult to choose which party to go to, as there are so many, and as one does want to be with the nicest possible crowd on this first night of the New Year. Hence, many a reveller will not decide where to go to until all the options have been heard and offered, which may not be until late in the afternoon of the 31st of December.
The dancings are mostly organised by University students, and since there is no 'native' university in Luxembourg, the students from the major Universities abroad tend to organise these. Thus there is a "Bal de Liège", a "Bal de Strasbourg", and others. These go on to the wee hours of the morning as the Scots would say (5 or 6 am) and a number of cafés (that is the continental version of the pub, not the English eating houses) are open that late too, whereas others might have closed at say 10 pm, but are opening again at 6 am, so you really can revel around the clock.
© Serge Moes - last update 29/11/96
