| First I would stress that you should
always have a horse vetted before purchase, which
will include the vet checking the horse's feet.
If, however, you are able to assess the feet
yourself you can avoid wasting a vetting fee on a
horse with an obvious foot problem. You will also
be able to pick out any minor faults which you
may be worried about, which you can ask your vet
to check out. It is also worth considering asking
your farrier to have a look at a prospective
purchase for you. Most farriers are amenable to
this - after all they will end up doing the
repair work if you buy a horse with terrible
feet. |
Look for defects in the horn of the
hoof - the lines running down from the coronary
band should be parallel to each other. If the
lines curve at the heel this can indicated
weakness in this area and may indicate the
horse's inability to grow strong heels, which in
turn can precipitate a number of foot problems.
Any irregularity in the horn growth may indicate
a change in the horse's diet or perhaps a
previous illness. Minor cracks in the horn are
not likely to cause a problem, but if there are
prominent sandcracks this would be a point to
check with your vet. How is the horse shod at the moment
- is he
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| I would start by checking that the
horse's feet are two matching pairs - that is
that both front feet are the same shape and size
as each other, and the same is true of the hind
feet. If the feet do not match, this may be
because one is a club foot, or that the foot is
damaged in some way. The next thing is to ensure the feet
are balanced and in proportion. A balanced foot
has:
- A symmetrical
appearance
- Heels which
are neither too far apart or too close
together
- A flowing
shape
- A toe to heel
ratio of 3 to 1
Another important
point is what is called the hoof-pastern axis.
This means that in a good foot seen from the side
you should be able to draw a straight line from
the centre of the fetlock joint through the
pastern and the centre of the hoof. In addition,
if a perpendicular line is dropped from the
centre of the coronary band there should be equal
amount of foot in front and behind the line.
Two common faults
are straight feet and flat feet. In a straight
foot, the toe to heel ratio is less than 3 to 1
and the foot is longer than it is wide. In a flat
foot, on the other hand, the toe to heel ratio is
greater than 3 to 1 and the foot is wider than it
is long. A slightly straight or flat foot on its
own is not a great problem, but a extreme
straight or flat foot should be avoided.
Check that the
feet point straight forward - not inwards or
outwards. Either of these deviations can lead to
problems in the horses action, such as dishing or
plaiting. Also look for signs of brushing, which
will show as scuff marks on the hoof wall.
When you pick the
foot up, see whether the soles are nice and
concave. If not, this means the soles are flat
and low, which lessens the effectiveness of the
foot's shock absorption mechanism. To see whether
the soles are thin, try prodding the sole with
your thumb - if it gives easily then the soles
are thin and are liable to bruising and damage.
If the horse has dropped soles this may be a
result of laminitis. Abnormal wear in heel area
of the shoe may also be a sign as the horse
transfers weight from the painful toe to the
heel. Whilst you are holding the foot up, check
that the frog is healthy and prominent. Feet with
contracted frogs should be avoided.
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wearing surgical shoes of some sort
- bar shoes, broad webs, raised heels etc., or is
he wearing concussion pads. If so, ask why. Has
the horse been well shod? Whilst a good farrier
can correct a foot which has been left with the
toe too long, if the horse has been shod in this
way for several years it may be more difficult to
correct. If you are unsure whether a foot is
unbalanced due to poor shoeing or not, it is best
to consult your farrier. The best way to learn about feet,
however, is to look at as many different horses
as possible. Compare the shapes and sizes and
note whether the horses have any history of foot
problems. Whilst you can be told what to look out
for, only experience can give you an eye for a
good foot.
One other factor
to bear in mind is the work that the horse will
be required to do. For example, a three day
eventer will need exemplary feet to stand up to
the hard work that will be required of it. Any
weakness in the foot is likely to precipitate
lameness in the long term if placed under a great
deal of stress. For a leisure horse, however,
doing mainly gentle hacking and very little
jumping, a minor fault is much less likely to
cause problem. The nature of terrain in your area
should also be considered - a horse with thin
soles is going to have difficulty coping with
flinty bridleways.
Once you find a
paragon of a horse with perfect feet, you should
make sure you keep them well-maintained. You
should check with the owner the date of the last
shoeing and find out how often the horse is shod,
so you can continue with the same routine. Never
leave the horse too long between shoeings - it is
a false economy as unbalanced feet can lead to
lameness, resulting in hefty vet's bills.
Similarly, make sure you choose a good farrier,
even if it means paying a little extra - looking
after your horse's feet well is a wise
investment.
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