Early mornings were to be one of the common factors for the whole week - the first day being no exception as we caught an early Shinkansen (aka. Bullet Train) the first of about five trains we took to reach Hokkaido - the last taking us under the sea for 54 kilometres and to Hakodate. Mum and Dad had their first real experience of a Japanese room complete with tatami flooring and futons.
At night we went up Hakodate Yama (Mountain), which rises up over the city and offers a great view of the city lights below, and across the sea to surrounding islands.
Another morning on the train, followed by a bus ride into Daisestusan National Park, and we were greeted by a splash of bright colours glowing at the foot of a volcano, steaming away in the distance. I hadn't expected the autumn leaves to be out so early,but we were lucky with our timing as we got our first glimpse of the bright yellows and reds when driving though the park. We arrived in time to take a stroll up from the foot of Asahidake Mountain and enjoy the colours before returning, at sunset, to what must be one of the most luxurious youth hostels in the world. We had our own traditional Japanese room and the use of a lounge in a log cabin. The hostel also served up some great meals and had a rotenburo (hot spring bath) outside in the woods for taking a dip under the stars.
In fair weather we set off to climb Asahidake Yama, the frst stage taking a cable car from the foot up to the edge of the tree line from where we set off along the paths around small lochs and a variety of shrubs ablaze in rich autumnal colours.
The climb with the crowds was not like climbing the mountain - this part of the world was not for real and could have only existed in a dream - a dream fuelled by the endorphines released in my head as I charged up the mountain side. Like the best of dreams you are so convinced of them that you don't even question them..... ......besides there were many others there to prove it - the strangers who greeted me with broad smiles as I passed them, either on the way up into, or emerging from, the cloud of mist and sulphur up ahead.
There I was, mum and dad having turned back to take a different route, on the side of a pile of vocanic rock and ashes, in places stained and scarred turquoise from the steaming sulphur vents. Here were the release valves for the pressure, heat and forces responsible for the origin of all I could see. I was on a island surrounded by the autumn sea below me - huge waves of reds, auburns and yellows which moved like waves as the clouds above them cast them from light to shade. In amidst the sea of colour the ponds were like islands perfectly reflecting the sky above and the plants on their shores. From below came a thin long line of those making some kind of pilgrimage to the barren steaming god on which I stood.
As I climbed, I entered the clouds above and lost sight of my sea and reflective islands. No longer could I see where the steam and it's odour came from - the cloud was with me now, all around me till I reached the top and could climb no more. I took my pictures of the reference point, telling me the vertical distance down to the surrounding sea of blue and grey that surrounded the sea of red, green and yellow, that surrounded the pile of ashes supporting the pole by which I stood, as evidence of conquest or experience - for me, proof that I was not dreaming.
There I left those who shared the mountain top with me, and headed back down the ashes to find more such peaks - ready to leave the cloud but not yet ready to return home. Going down the ashes, it was easier to run than walk. The faster I went the bigger the head rush and the bigger the smile - the broader the smile, the faster I went and the more intense the rush - absolute momentum with no fear.
I came out of the cloud of white to meet the white of snow - snow that had survived the summer. From there, a trickle of water emereged like a group of refugees escaping the onset of winter and yet another seven or eight months frozen in the dark beneath the weight of fresh snow. How long had that snow been held back trapped on the side of the mountain by the cold ? Nothing was holding me back though, as more of Daisetsuzan was to be explored.
I kept on running down and around the edge of a wide crater where some shrubs had taken root and shone out reminding me that I could see more than monochrome. I kept on running till the upward slope took the last of my inertia and I returned to the cloud - another peak, another post and another run down. And so it continued as I made my way back in steps towards sea level and the land of technicolour, each time enjoying the freedom and absolute peace of the mountains around me rising majestically out of the sea of colour. These mountains, a monument to the anger from beneath the surface, now inspire so much calm.
Along the way there was something that added real physical experience to the dream. The path ahead of me suddenly took a sharp turn down to the left and a deep gorge appeared. I walked down the side towards the head of the gorge where vegetation had found some way to cling to the rocks and survive. In dreams, perspective is my own device to use at will and these metre high pine bushes became a towering forest beneath me, the giant walking through them. Further down the gorge the smell of suphur grew stronger, and in the midst of a group having lunch, emerged a pale green stream - steaming, bubbling and dancing it's way down the gorge. Before it could make it's way downstream it had been blocked to form a small pool transforming the gorge into the most beautiful of bathrooms. To strip down and share this hot sulphur bath, cleanse and relax, up to my neck in warmth, in the open air was .... ..... bliss.
After a day above the trees we spent a more leisurely day together walking through the forest to Tenninkyo Onsen. We only met one other walker in the two hours we strolled under a canopy of colour. On all sides were a variety of trees, grasses, fungi, shrubs - all colours, shapes and sizes forming a tunnel of peace. We emerged from this tunnel only at three points.
First - at about half way, Hyotan Pond, appeared before us surrounded by marsh in a beautiful clearing - no photograph could come close to doing this place justice, and we took quite a few. I was to return there on the way home to find it basking in sunshine under a deep blue sky which brought out the ring of colour from the trees enclosing this spot.
Second - we reached a point where the trees had been cleared to open up a veiw of Tenninkyo (heaven's people / angels) Valley. We could see far across the valley into the distance over the next series of mountains and up the valley marked by a couple of waterfalls. We then returned into the trees before emerging for the final time directly above the valley - almost a cliff face. Over a short distance we made our way down the rocky path dropping about 300 - 400 metres to arrive at the river and hot spring resort, Tenninkyo Onsen.
A further ten minute walk up the valley brought us to the base of Hagoromo Waterfall (below) and then a little further up the valley to Shikishima waterfall. Then, back to the villiage for lunch before mum & dad took the bus back to Asahidake Onsen. I went to take an onsen (hot spring bath) by the riverside looking up the valley, bringing relief to my legs from the past couple days walking and giving me the energy to make it back up the the steep valley side. Going back through the forest alone, I had my bell ringing to frighten any of the bears. I stopped for a while by the pond again before returning to the youth hostel, sunset, dinner, and another bath under the stars. Mum, that night also made her debut in the outdoor spa to join a mix of Australian, Chinese, Japanese and American women.
The first bus out of Asahidake Onsen was not until about ten so we'd time to relax that morning - even time for another bath.......Ahhhhhh.
With a bus ride out of the park and another train ride we were back in Sapporo by lunch time. We visited the botanical gardens and then took a long walk through the city to the Sapporo Brewery. This, being one of Sapporo's most famous attractions we couldn't miss out on a 2 hour all you can eat lamb barbeque and all you can drink beer testimony to over indulgence. Mum insisted that dad and I were drunk, but I was sure that everything was under control.
Admittedly the bus we took didn't go back to the railway station, nor did we get off at the nearest stop, but we did catch the train on time despite Mum's anxiety. With the help of the bus driver who stopped the bus, stopped the traffic, hailed another bus, put us on it and made sure we got to the station, we arrived with enough time to spare - evidence that we didn't have to run after mum, who sprinted ahead down the street casting aside all innocent passers by in her wake. We slept off dinner on the train ride and arrived at Toya-Ko Lake in time for another bath and off to bed. Mum & Dad I think were happy to be staying in a hotel that had beds and ensuite bathrooms.
Our day at Toya-ko was great, despite attempts by the weather to dull spirits. The hotel was a great family run affair and they really served up some great meals for us. The folks were getting a bit tired of the rice and miso soup for breakfast so were obliged with a massive English breakfast, in addition to, rather than instead of the usual Japanese delights. The previous night we were accompanied to the international phone in the town by the oldest son to make sure we managed to call granny - I think his mum hoped that he might use some of the English he was supposed to be learning at high school.
The theme for the day was definitely volcanoes. We stood at the base of Mt Showa Shin-zan, which only appeared in the middle of a vegetable field in 1943 and has now risen to 406 metres. It was steaming away all the time we were there and we got a good view down onto it's summit from its 735 metre elder brother Usa-zan which last had a major eruption in 1977. From the top of the cable car up Usa-zan we got to see down into the empty crater and watch it smoking away.
For the rest of the day we visited a couple of museums and took a boat trip out onto and around the lake - in fact anything to keep the day from turning into a shopping trip round numerous identical souvenir shops selling identical souvenirs (I won't mention any names).
At night back at the hotel, we were again treated to an awesome meal - I couldn't count quite how many courses we were served. Every night on the lake there is a fireworks display so we went out to the water front in out hotel slippers with see through umbrellas to watch and quickly return to recover with a bath.
Just a very long series of train rides, all the way home and back to bed - well a space on the floor anyway.