Pembroke
Contribution from Adrian Williams
FROM: FRESHWATER WEST
TO: FRESHWATER EAST
DISTANCE: 16 miles (approx.)
TIDE HEIGHT: 5.28 Metres (Low)
TIDE DIRECTION: Pushing South for the first hour then North for the remainder of the trip.
We arrived at Freshwater West car park Friday night with the van loaded to the brim with two sea kayaks, two surf kayaks and two mountain bikes. The waves were flat, not totally unexpected as Peter had telephoned the surf line for a prediction, but we hoped that sometime over the weekend the surf would pick up.
We parked in the car park overlooking Freshwater West and after cooking our evening meal we arranged the bedding for the night before cycling the two miles to the local pub in Castlemartin. The absence of putting lights on the bikes added to the feeling of adventure. After a few drinks we cycled back to the car park with Peter complaining that he couldn't see the road - amazing to think that you go blind after 3 pints of Caffreys! On the descent to the car park there was a parked car with the drivers side window half open and as I past in complete darkness I heard a girl scream in fright as I flew past. About one minute later Peter arrived at the car park and I explained about frightening the girl at that moment the car switched its headlights on and scanned the area looking for whatever I assumed frightened the girl. We hid behind the van out of sight but had quiet a laugh about the incident, especially as that particular area has had a book written about U.F.O's.
On rising in the morning we looked out over the beach at Freshwater West there was little or no wind and the sea was flat calm - a sea trip was on, the only question was what were we going to do. After discussion it was decided to kayak from Freshwater West to Freshwater East. A quick check over the Castlemartin Firing range where we saw two fishing boats told us that the military would not be firing that day. The firing usually takes place on most weekdays from April to November and the range extends from St Govan's Head to Linney Head extending from 3 to 4 miles seaward and possibly 12 miles. So if in doubt whether or not an exercise is due on that day telephone the Castlemartin Range control (number above).
Before commencing the kayaking we had to take the bikes to the finish at Freshwater East and asked the owner of the local Cafe (who was stacking up the shop for the opening of the season on April Bank Holiday) if we could leave the bikes near the shop he kindly told us to take them to the back of the shop where he will keep an eye on them.
Having arranged our lifts back to the van we were returning to Freshwater West and on the road that runs past the Castlemartin Barracks we turned a corner and Peter slammed on the brakes as we were faced with about 30 sheep who were spread across the road. We waited for a couple of minutes for a farmer to appear but then decided that the sheep had got loose and as they were facing an entrance to a field Peter suggested that I opened the gate to leave them in and leave the road clear for other motorists. I thought it was a good idea and jumped out of the van and untied the gate and opened it for the sheep to race in. Once inside they mixed with the flock of other sheep that were already in the field. I re-tied the gate and got in that van and about half a mile along the road I saw a farmer walking along a field carrying a lamb towards an open gate I looked at Peter and he looked at me and we burst out laughing at the thought of a farmer getting to the road and finding that 30 sheep had disappeared. Then our imagination started to run wild and we thought that the farmer would eventually find his sheep in another farmers field and would accuse him of rustling his sheep. What started out as a good will gesture had turned into something really funny and this was our first day in Pembroke! It must be a good omen for forthcoming days.
We loaded the kayaks with safety equipment, food and dry clothing before gently paddling out of Freshwater West towards Linney Head. On the headland near Linney Head was a military land rover which appeared to be following us as we crossed the Caslemartin Beach and heading towards out destination. On rounding Linney Head the coastline is very interesting as you see the start of column basalt rock formation which continues for above six miles to St Govans Head - it reminded me of Staffa. There are numerous caves that you can explore and the stacks are spectacular. A good view of St Govans Chapel can be seen from the sea but landing is difficult as the steep cliffs drop vertically into the sea. We were both in need of refreshments and managed to find a small sandy beach to land before getting a brew going and a welcome break for food. The horseshoe shaped cove we stopped was cluttered with wood but provided a very sheltered place to stay. Our stop lasted about 45 minutes before we launched for the final leg of the trip. This part of the Pembrokeshire Coast is popular with climbers and we must have seen about 30 that day taking advantage of the calm conditions and beautiful surroundings.
The trip took us about 6 hours in total but it is not a difficult paddle if the conditions are calm and is recommended for beginners and intermediate abilities as the varied coastline will quench the their thirst for more.
We arrived at Freshwater East collected our bikes and completed the second physical activity of the day and cycled the 10 miles to Freshwater West to collect the van.
In summary a great days paddling and highly recommended on a calm day.
DAY TWO - 22 March 1998
FROM: DALE
TO: STOKHOLM & SKOMER ISLANDS TO MARTINS HAVEN
DISTANCE: 14 miles (approx.)
TIDE HEIGHT: 5.02 Metres (Low )
TIDE DIRECTION: Pushing North for the duration of the journey.
We awoke from our slumber in the van in the car park at Dale and talked briefly about the yobs who interrupted our sleep about midnight by their shouting and abusive language. They were arguing amongst themselves and scuffling for about an hour until police arrived to send them packing.
The day showed a lot of promise the high pressure system which had prevailed all week was still with us and the sun shone brightly with a background of a cloudless blue sky as we cooked breakfast of porridge and toast (I think I have found the answer to making nice toast on a small camping cooker. Use an old flat metal dish and place over the cooker so it acts an a hot plate. On placing the bread over the hot plate it quickly toasts the bread and tastes wonderful)
We took the bikes to Martins Haven and secured them at a back of a holiday home which was unoccupied that weekend. The car park at Martins Haven was a hive of activity as 30-40 divers we getting prepared to do their first dive of the season. We briefly talked to them before heading back to Dale for the start of the trip.
This weekend was also our first sea kayaking trip of the season and just as well we not undertaking expedition trips as we had both forgotten vital equipment. Peter had forgotten his portable kayak pump, I had forgotten a tin opener and the tidal charts. However, as luck would have it divers we spoke to in Dale had a spare copy of the tidal chart and kindly gave it to us. This made me feel far more comfortable about making the crossings to Stokholm and Skomer. We loaded the kayaks and departed from Dale at 12.45 p.m. - the tidal currents would help us to the islands until 5.46 p.m. so we had plenty of time. The paddle out of Dale takes you past some very impressive buildings namely: Dale Fort Fields Centre and West Blockhouse Point. The next headland is St Ann's Head (known locally as the mixer) and it lived up to it reputation as the waves crashed over the rocks and we had to be very observant as we followed the contours of the cliffs. Once we has left the mainland and made a beeline for Stokholm the water flattened out and with the help of the current we reached the island in under an hour. The harbour on Stokholm is well hidden at Hog Bay and is only visible at the last minute as you turn the corner. The green shed located precariously on the cliffs is your guideline when you approach from St Ann's Head. Landing on the jetty proved to be very difficult as the waves whipped in fiercely with the help of a gusting SW wind. We decided to paddle to the sheltered side of North Haven and try to get on the island to get a brew going. We approached the cove with care as there was only a small vee shaped area to manoeuvre the kayaks. Peter went in first and skillfully got out of his kayak just in time before the next small wave came in from the sound. My landing was easier as Peter supported my kayak. We snuggled in the cove trying to get away from the wind which by now had turned cold. I slipped a thermal on under my Knoydart cag and felt warmer almost immediately. Peter took his cag off and replaced it with his buffalo shirt then we got the cooker out and as we just about to prepare the brew the lighter didn't work. Not to worry I said as I reached in my BDH and produced what I thought was a box of matches which turned out to have only one live match. You talk about pressure I reminded Peter that that was the only match we had and immediately he looked at me as if to say don't blame me if this goes wrong and we fail to light the stove. I immediately took it out of his hand and struck the striking pad on the box and lit the stove to shouts of delight. A hero again! We enjoyed our hot tea/coffee and sandwiches and got ready to set off for Skomer.
Stokholm Island is a bird sanctuary and access is officially by permission from the National Trust this point is reinforced at both the harbour and North Haven with bold intimidating phrases like "NO LANDING" . There are very few landing places on the island and if you decide to take the chance be very careful as the rocks are very slippery and sharp.
We said good-bye to Stokholm and made our way to Skomer heading for Midland Isle. The wind was now behind us and we made good time surfing the waves and made light of the two mile crossing. On arriving at Midland Isle the overfalls at the sound were beginning to work we cut inside and paddled up the eddy which took us into the slack water on the north side of little sound and ferry glided to the shelter of the island. Following the perimeter of the island we now only had to cross Jack Sound and paddled quite hard towards Tusker Rock to avoid getting washed down to the overfalls at the south of the sound. We reached the headland at Wooltack Point and paddled the remaining half mile to Martins Haven where we saw some of the divers we had spoken to earlier in the day packing their gear away. They said it was cold and their 7mm thickness of wetsuit was hardly enough. The weather that day had slowly deteriorated but nevertheless it was very enjoyable. It took us an hour to paddle from Stokholm to Martins Haven and we arrived on the mainland at 4.45 p.m.
We quickly changed into dry clothing , collected the bikes and cycled the 4 miles to Dale to collect the van.
In summary a very good trip suitable for the intermediate to advanced paddler and as this trip involves a 4 mile crossing across the sound from St Ann's Head to Stokholm there is more of a sense of achievement but ensure that the tide times and tidal currents are favourable as there are a lot of potential problems waiting to catch you out if you are a weak paddler.
DAY THREE - 23 March 1998
TIDE HEIGHT: 5.11 Metres (Low )
We decided the night before over a meal in a pub just outside Haverfordwest that we would head back to Freshwater West to crash out in the car park in the hope that the surf would pick up. The weather was changeable so we just prayed for some surf. We spent Sunday night at the local pub in Castlemartin talking to the locals who told us that occasionally the military fire missiles at night which disturbs the whole village but there is nothing they can do about it. Also, there is a nightly hourly patrol by land rover through the village down the two miles to Freshwater West. With these thoughts running through my mind I slipped into deep slumber.
The following morning we up at 8.00 a.m. looked out of the van window to be greeted with waves about 1 foot high. We had a leisurely breakfast and studied the surf to see more of a pattern taking place and the height of the waves increase. We decided that the waves were good enough to surf and uncovered our surf kayaks and headed for the beach at 10.00 a.m. (some 4 hours before high water). We had a good two hours surfing clean, glassy, green waves which rose to about 3 foot in height but more importantly they gave us quite long rides which enabled us to strut out stuff and demonstrate our skills. After a very enjoyable session we returned to the van to have food and change into warm dry clothing before heading north back to reality.
A very good long weekend and all that remained now is to remove 3 days growth of beard and return to the routine of work.
j08 July 98