Joan and Pete Miller, United Kingdom, 17 July 2004: "We have just finished the GTA from Molini to Ventimiglia, which we could not have done without your help as there is no relevant English info. So thanks very much!  I have attached a review of our experiences of paths, accomodation etc. (some of the opening and closing dates varied) which may be helpful to you. We met no one who was doing the whole trek and only a handful of people doing short stretches. Judging from the comments we received along the way we began to wonder if we are the only English to walk it. Thanks again!"

GTA and ALTA VIA DI MONTI LIGURI June 2003 to July 2004

26 June - 16 July 2003: Molini to Susa

When we started the walk the new guidebook had not been published so we used IGC maps and your Internet notes throughout ...

We flew Ryanair, Stanstead to Turin then by train and bus to Molini di Calasca staying at the pizzeria Locanda del Tiglio, where we were able to buy provisions and camping gas (always difficult when arriving by air).

DAY 1. Molini to Campello Monte. The path was fine until Alpe del Lago but from there to the col was desperate and we eventually took a bearing for the col and heaved ourselves through the azalea bushes until reaching a thin contouring path which took us across to the marked one. (After this blip, wayfinding was not much of a problem for several days). Our intention was to stay at Alpe Pian Largo but on arrival we were attacked by voracious horseflies which seemed to find Deet attractive, so rather than sit in the hut for the rest of the day we carried on to Campello Monte.  Posto Tappa and nearby restaurant fine although it was fortunate that we saw the owner and booked on our arrival because he was waiting to close as we finished our meal. 

DAY 2. Campello Monte to S. Maria. We called in at Rimella to thank you but you were out walking, so as you may remember we left a small contribution towards the internet. The way did not tally with the map from La Res  but because of torrential rain we walked along a small road from Belvedere to Bocco Sup then by a path to the main road and on to S. Maria where we were made very welcome. Breakfast was of amazing proportions with extra lemon tea for our bottles. They said we were the first English visitors to stay there but that seems hard to believe.

DAY 3. S. Maria to Carcoforo.  No problems. Stayed in the excellent Posto Tappa at Carcoforo.

DAY 4. Carcoforo to Rima.  No problems even though it was misty. Stayed in the very strange Albergo Tagliaferro at Rima, ( like stepping back in time.)

DAY 5. Rima to San Antonio.  Even mistier today so no views of Monte Rosa from the col. Had lunch in the comfortable winter room of Rif Feriol. Walked down the left bank of the river on a good path from Alagna to Balma at the suggestion of a bar owner in Alagna, then up the road to S Antonio. Good shops in Riva Valdobbia. Stayed at the excellent Rif Val Vognia at San Antonio.

DAY 6. San Antonio to Piedicavallo.  Super day over Col Maccagno, then a little care needed with route finding to Colle Lazoney. At Rif Rivetta they were expecting a group up from the valley for a party so because we felt more in need of a good nights sleep we headed on down to Piedicavallo where we stayed in comfort at the Albergo Rosabianca.

DAY 7. Piedicavallo to Oroppa.  Because we were now ahead of our schedule we went up to Madonna delle Neve and thought it well worth the effort. Had elevenses at Rif la Sella. In Desate we chatted to a man in the beautiful garden of an idyllic cottage which he had been restoring for 30 years, the only access being by 2kms of mule track. Walked mainly on the road up to the sanctuary then on the marked way where we were plagued by mosquitoes. Went over the col instead of the tunnel then down to Oroppa. Markers a bit vague but it is easy enough to reach Oroppa which was pretty much deserted except for us. Good shops

DAY 8. Oroppa to Malettto.  Walked up to Rif  Rosazza arriving just before the guardian who was coming to open it. (July 1st). Had a drink at Rif. Savoia then reached Bochetta del Largo just in time to spot the situation of Rif Coda before it disappeared into cloud which was pouring up the valley. We payed great attention to following waymarkers but seemed to go by some higher variant, eventually reaching the refuge long after we felt we must have passed it in the mist. The paths between the Bochetta and Colle delle Lace seemed to bear no resemblance to those on our map. Rif Coda was still closed. The winter room was open but there was no water. The weather cleared and we decided to push on, but missed the onward path and began to descend on a marked path which would have taken us back to the Bochetta. Rather than climb back up we found an old traversing path and headed south on it. It was very overgrown wherever it cossed a river but eventually we reached a path coming up from the valley to the col and suddenly we were following markers again. Over the col there was not much to follow so we just aimed towards the river and picked up the path there. Even though we arrived at Maletto at about 8pm., we were made welcome and fed well.

DAY 9. Maletto to La Cavanne. Started off well as far as Quincinetto and even as far as the old marble mines but then we lost the markers and walked most of the way up the road which was quiet enough. In parts it has been remarked but the old ones are still there so it is very confusing. We also made the mistake of going to Scalare where the PT is marked on our map and had to go back to la Cavanne. PT comfortable enough and food OK.

DAY 10. La Cavanne to Fondo. Followed newly waymarked route, completely different to map .Initially crossing the track going towards Cima de Bonze several times before heading south towards the ridge where it joins the original route. We arrived at Rif Chiaramonte a long time before two young men who went the other way. We were enticed into the farm for a substantial and entertaining lunch (we declined the red wine) and departed promising to send photos. The path was soon very thin with markers hidden in long grass and needed a lot of care until the start of the descent. There did not seem any sign of a PT in Succinto but we were well received at Fondo where we again ate copiously.

DAY 11. Fondo to Ronco Canavese.  Descent from Boch.delle Oche quite tricky in parts. Walked down road to Ronco Canavese. Much evidence of flood damage which could have damaged path. Stayed at Albergo Centrale. OK.

DAY 12. Ronco to Talosio.  Route now follows road down from sanctuary, not as map. PT open again at Talosio. Evening meal fine but only sweet biscuits for breakfast.

DAY 13. Talosio to San Lorenzo. Stayed at Trattoria degli Amici at San Lorenzo.

DAY 14. San Lorenzo to Noasca. We were advised to walk a couple of km down the road where we would find a new GTA direction board. At first the path was wonderful but about halfway along we found out why when we passed a group of path workers. After that it was abysmal. We managed to reach the Sanctuario S’Anna for lunch but after that it became desperate and we were just about to abandon when we met an old "goatherd" (the animals looked like Ibex) who assured us we could reach the valley, so we persevered. Once in the valley where the route crosses to the other side of the main road it became completely impassable. Stayed in the Albergo Gran Paradiso in Noasca. Shops.

DAY 15. Noasca to Ceresole Reale. Advised to set off up the main road to where path markers  leave to the right. It is also a nature trail. Well manicured path until nature trail leaves at head of cirque, then much more overgrown but nothing like yesterday. Found Ceresole Reale confusing didn’t know whether to turn left or right but eventually got it right and stayed at Albergo Ciafaron,  the first hotel by the lake, nicely placed for a quick getaway across the dam next morning and very comfortable. You can buy just about anything at the bazaar just up the road. They even found me a skipole to replace the one I had lost in Noasca.

DAY 16. Ceresole to Pialpetta. The only problem was that by the time we had climbed high enough to see the Gran Paradiso it had become too hazy with cloud building up over the peak. Stayed at Hotel Pialpetta. OK. (On 3 flights back from Turin we have had perfect views)

DAY 17. Pialpetta to Balme. Again clear first thing but with so much haze build up that we cannot see across the valley by lunchtime. The PT at Balme, as almost the last building at the top of the village, provides a sting in the tail. We eat heated up "readymeals" with delicious homemade grissini, in the bar over the road. She also makes us breakfast.

DAY 18. Balme to Usseglio.  It was incredibly misty outside. We decided to give it a go hoping we would climb above it, but no such luck. The path is very easy to follow until over the col where GTA branches right, away from the main route. We managed with difficulty to follow it to the secondary col only to discover that the descent had been completely changed leaving at almost 180 to the one on the map. We decided to follow the new route and eventually after a most unpleasant, wet, slippery ordeal made it down to Usseglio, soaked not from rain but wet undergrowth or should it be overgrowth? Stayed at the Albergo Rocciamelone. Faded glory but excellent food.

DAY 19. Usseglio to Il Truc. Mist still thick so we walked up to Rif Vulpot by road. Had drinks there then climbed up through mist to Colle Croce de Ferro with superb views above cloud cover, best for several days. Descent OK until after leaving main track to descend to Il Truc, when things became very confused and overgrown so that we were surprised when we emerged at the hamlet. Made welcome at PT and fed well.

DAY 20. Il Truc to Susa. Walk down to Susa initially OK but all went haywire where we met the Sentiero Monarci just above Susa. We continued to follow red and white balisades not realising the two paths had separated. Anyway with Susa obviously there below us it was not too difficult to find an alternative way down. Stayed at Hotel Susa e Stazione which was very comfortable but extremely noisy because of traffic outside and because there was no air con windows needed to be open. Railway closed for repairs-bus to Bussoleno.

04 - 16 September 2003: Susa to Bagni de Vinadio

DAY 21. Susa to Alpe Toglia. The second visit was very much a spur of the moment decision, again we flew to Turin, took the afternoon train to Meana de Susa and walked up to Alpe Toglia in about 3 hours arriving just before dark. Initially the route was very confused until Assiere, but no problems after that. We knew that no meals are provided at the PT but there are cooking facilities which are fine. We were able to buy cheese there.

DAY 22. Alpe Toglia to Usseaux. Path confusing above PT until main route is rejoined on the ridge. Saw wild boar in forest and later several hundred chamois in large herds on mountain sides. Stayed in a rifugio on main street on right in Usseaux. Good food and we were able to buy provisions there.

DAY 23. Usseaux to Didiero. They offered to book us in at the PT at Didiero with a free collection by car from Balsiglia but we are interested in the story of the Waldensians so wanted to stay at the wonderfully named "PT of the Waldensians glorious return" in Balsiglia. Even though a couple had stayed there the previous evening, when we arrived it was closed for the winter (Sept 6) and the museum was just closing for the day. Walked on the road to Didiero. Very comfortable PT.

DAY 24. Didiero to Ghigo. A man we met had trouble navigating on this leg particularly on the Colle de Serrevecchio. Virtually no markers so we found we had to pay quite a lot of attention to the map,but it was not as confusing as some of the paths further north. In fact generally speaking the whole of the route from Susa south was easier in terms of routefinding, path engineering and path maintenance. Stayed in Hotel  ? (in main square)in Ghigo. OK.

DAY 25. Ghigo to Rif. Jervis. No problems routefinding, even though we descended into thick mist from Colle Giulian, until reaching roadhead at Colle del Faure. We didn’t know whether to turn left or right. It is left .Later on we followed markers which brought us out on the road above Villanova, but again, at first we were not sure where we were. Had we known that the PT in Villanova was closed we could have turned right and headed straight up to Willy Jervis but instead we went down to the village. (A man thought the owner would probably be back later that day. Sept. 8) Rif Jervis excellent with best breakfast of the trip.( No hot showers on a visit 14yrs ago)

DAY 26. Rif Jervis to Rif Barbara. This had not been our plan but it was pouring with rain, forecast to continue all day, which it did. No routefinding problems at all. Rif Barbara excellent with good drying facilities.

DAY 27. Rif. Barbara to Pian Melze. Another straightforward day with good weather and superb views from Colle de Gianna. Stayed in PT and ate in restaurant across. "Gourmet evening meal of traditional dishes"

DAY 28. Pian Melze to Pontechianale. Beatifully waymarked stage, the highlight of the trip. Rif.Quintina Sella open for lunch. Stayed B&B at PT in village and ate in the only restaurant open in the evening.

DAY 29. Pontechianale to Rif Meleze. After Colle Battagliola stayed on track and bypassed Chiesa saving some climbing. Rif Meleze very good.

DAY 30. Rif Meleze to Rif Campo Bassa. Climbed Monte Bellino from col on easy path. Later, on descent went off route but it was our own fault and because there are lots of paths all going to the same place did not present a problem. Rif Campo Bassa was being rebuilt and we were housed in portacabins. Rif full on Sat. night.

DAY 31. Rif Campo Bassa to Chialvetta. Went over Colle d’Enchiausa variant. It had snowed in the night and was a bit tricky. Superb views.

DAY 32. Chialvetta to Pontebernado. Rif. Gardetta had closed at the weekend and a couple doing the tour of Vale Maira had to abandon because all available accommodation had closed. Stayed in PT and ate in albergo.

DAY 33. Pontebernado to Bagni de Vinadio. This was our last day so we had to either finish at Pontebernado or do a long day. We decided to omit Colle di Stau and walk up the road to Rif Talarico, lots of chamois, then we did all three passes over to San Bernolfo. All is clear until after Rif. Millofiero where we ran out of markers but as the route is very obvious there is no problem. We began to wonder if  GTA had been diverted down the valley straight to Bagni but none of the maps show a change. We saw no signs of a PT in San Bernolfo and carried on down to Bagni where we stayed in comfort at the Chalet d’Ischiator. The owner gave us a lift to Vinadio where we caught the bus back to Cuneo.

24 June - 09 July 2004: Bagni de Vinadio to Ventimiglia

Plane to Turin, train to Cuneo, bus to Pianchi Val Sturia then walked up to Bagni.

DAY 34. Bagni to Sant’Anna de Vinadio. After a little confusion just over the river in Bagni all was fine apart from a short stretch over the col where the path had fallen away. Stayed in PT after a lot of trouble getting the key and ate in the Casa de St. Giacamo (where the key is kept even though it is closed in the afternoon) Food just about adequate and not cheap.

DAY 35. Sant’Anna to Terme de Valdiere. No one seemed to know if Malinvern was open and we couldn’t get through on the mobile so we went round by Isola 2000(we found out later that it was open-June 26). Path a bit vague above Isola 2000 but not as bad as they usually are near to ski resorts .Rif La Grange looked closed for good. Lots of snow to cross on Baisse de Druos- quite dangerous (we met a man who had just injured himself and later one who had fallen coming over from Malinvern). It was Sat. so we missed out Rif Questa and went down to Terme to Albergo Turismo which was fine. Rif Questa probably full judging from the numbers going up.

DAY 36. Terme to Rif. Genova. Rif. Morelli Buzzi open for lunch. Fortunately local weekend walkers were opening the paths up because there was an unusual amount of snow for the time of year. Quite a lot on Colle del Chiapous. Rif Genova open and very good.

DAY 37. Rif Genova to San Giacomo. Guardian from Genova telephoned to book the PT and restaurant across road for us. Fixed menu for cordon bleu standard traditional meal.(Baita Mont Gelas 0171 978704). Colle Finistrella very difficult in snow. We had to wait for some Ibex to get off the path on the ascent. Rif. Elena Storia open. Saw a bearded vulture above San Giacomo.

DAY 38. San Giacomo to Trinita. We were advised to walk down the road to Ponte della Rovina and going off the amount of debris in the river and damage to the road we could believe that the path is in a bad state. Had a bit of trouble finding the bridge over the Gesso to rejoin the GTA. It is about a hundred metres above the main road bridge at Ponte della Rovina. Some workmen were just putting the finishing touches to a brand new one. Initially the path had been renovated but we eventually passed the men who were doing it and it deteriorated after that. We had trouble following the route where it descends steeply through the forest towards Trinita. The footbridge is still down at Trinita and we had to walk a km up river to the road bridge. It seemed a bit of a pointless stage and I think another time I would have stayed on the road to Entraque and walked up the track which follows the left bank of the Bousset. PT excellent.

DAY 39. Trinita to Palanfre. No problems with routefinding even though the lower parts on each side were shrouded in thick mist. Another excellent PT at the Locanda del Parco.

DAY 40. Palanfre to Limonetto. Route well marked but path up to Passo di Ciotto Mien very eroded and quite dangerous. I was glad of the fixed ropes. Ristorante Aquila Blu put us in the smallest apartment in the world. Never saw the PT. Ate at restaurant. First shops since Bagni.

DAY 41. Limonetto to Rif Garelli. Got away early but were thwarted trying to find the start of the path. It has been diverted round a garden then later on it gets very vague but you can follow the MTB signs until Col de Tende is in sight. Once up there everything was fine and we reached the refuge by 4pm., rather tired but without difficulty. Excellent refuge.

DAY 42. Rif Garelli to Viozene. No problems at all. Rif Havis de Giorgio was open. The path junction to Viozene was clearly marked just below Rif Ciarro Bossi . Path in good condition with a new suspension bridge over the gorge. Rif. Mongioie open. We stayed at Hotel Tiglio and were well looked after.The guardian at Garelli says they are building a new refuge south of the Margureis which may provide a better link to the AVML.

Viozene to Ventimiglia 

DAY 1. Viozene to Monesi. We walked down the road 5km to the bridge over the Negrone then up the track to Ponte Tanerello where there were lots of cars parked and some very strange people about. Possibly there was some kind of "hippy" festival on but we decided not to have our lunch there and pressed on up the path immediately before the bridge, which had been signposted to Valcona Sotto until someone pulled it down. Judging from the state of the path and the number of trees we had to climb over it is very little used and it is certainly a long time since anyone rode a horse along it. By Valcone Sotto we had had enough and walked up the road to Piaggia. Here our map is totally wrong. What is marked as Monesi di Triora is actually Monesi di Mendatica and where Monesi di Triora stands there is one building marked at the bottom of a ski lift. Just follow the signs and ignore the map. Only Albergo La Vecchia Partenza Tel. 0183326574 open now. Hotel Redentore derelict. We had to wait ages for a room on a Sunday afternoon but afterwards were well looked after. There is still a reasonable shop. 

DAY 2. Monesi to Realdo. Walked up the road to Passo Basera (superb views back to Col de Tende area) then followed the ridge right round over Monte Saccarello to Passo di Garlanda. The direct path to the pass takes off on a bend right next to a notice which says "Private no Access" but which actually refers to the surrounding land. Rif San Remo looked in good condition but there did not seem to be a water supply. Where path from col joins the roads we took the Triora road for a few hundred metres to a picnic spot, where a well manicured mule track descended to Verdeggia. The village you can see is Realdo. Both have PTS run by Triora. Tel.018494008. When I rang we were told we could only stay at Realdo that night, and a woman drove up to meet us with the key. We ate very well at the Casa di Roca in the village. Verdeggia has no restaurant but there is Hotel restaurant Il Poggio Tel 018494189 just down the road. (When I called in they said they had no rooms which was an obvious lie). Realdo is a gem of a village and well worth a visit.

DAY 3. Realdo to Rif Allavena. Walked up road to Colle di Sanson. Should have been a track but now newly surfaced to Il Pin. Traffic free and lots of new picnic tables. Rif. Sanson derelict.Followed AV to Rif Grai then down to Rif Allavena. Excellent with first class food.

DAY 4. Rif. Allavena to Rif Muratone. Intended to use the Sentiero degli Alpini  but set off on the Sentiero degli Inamorate which according to a signpost joined it and had to retrace when we found the path had slid away. After that we were a bit cagey and decided on the northern route from Passo Valetta (signposted to Ventimiglia) It proved to be a superb path with wonderful views into France. Rif Muratone was comfortable with a satisfying dinner but not much breakfast. 

DAY 5. Rif Muratone to Pozzuolo. We stopped again at Gola di Gouta for a second breakfast. The lady there was very pleasant. Even though the lower route is marked as a variant on the map there are no balisades but as long as you remember to follow the right bank of the river Grugni from where the asphalt ends below Gola di Gouta, then contour you can’t go far wrong. We would have taken the higher route but it was thundery and the vegetation was wet. When I rang Agenzia Agriturismo di AV 0184206754 the lady was not keen to make us an evening meal but in the end she relented. Take the road from Cole di Cane for about 15mins and it is on the left. I fell in love with the setting.

DAY 6. Pozzuolo to Ventimiglia. Walked along road until it rejoined AV where road goes left to Dolceaqua, then followed AV right into Ventimiglia. It was a bit overgrown in parts but not too bad.
Stayed at Villa Franca, cheap and cheerful. When we saw Hotel Seagull wished we had stayed there. Returned to Cuneo by train, very interesting-but lots of tunnels.