This is a reference section for knitters who have bought Artika garment patterns. I will post up corrections in patterns as I become aware of any mistakes. In the following corrections, a word or phrase in capital letters (upper case) indicates text which appears in the pattern but which is wrong. The corrected version will then follow with the corrected (changed) text also capitalised
The instructions for knitting "Body Pieces A and B" on page 1, read:
"Set machine to knit fairisle design no 1 on page 3 ... and knit 400 ROWS"
It should read
"Set machine to knit fairisle design no 1 on page 3 ..... and knit 550 rows.
A point of information here which might be useful. There's a difference between designing for knitted fabrics and wovens Even if you knit a small piece with exactly the same knitting machine, same tension, same weights etc. as a big piece the tensions will not be the same. The shape of the body piece in this pattern (e.g. long and skinny vs. short and fat) also makes a big difference. As a general rule the longer and skinnier the piece the longer your stitches will stretch to, so if you calculate how many rows you need from a small tension square, your will knitting will come out too long. Although people don't generally admit this, you even get differences on an ordinary sweater back from your tension square. Most designers say thay use the back as a second tension square and alter the rest of the pattern from there! Cardigan fronts are problematic because of this. They invariably come out miles too long because as they are very skinny, the knitting stretches downwards. I usually counteract this by removing as many weights as I can.
The body pieces on the Japan Suit are very long indeed (about 4 times the length of anything you would normally knit) and very skinny, and the yarn is quite stretchy too, so you need to keep your weights to a minimum. Check your length carefully after pressing and stabilising. If need be, you can cut & sew after folding the piece in half, to reduce the length. Make sure the end you cut & sew is the end that is at the back of the jacket, as this will be bound, and the cut edge will be neatly concealed. Make a note of how many rows you had to cut off, so you can adjust the second piece accordingly.
On page 9 of the Accessories Collection booklet there is a mistake in the instructions for knitting the Slipper Piece and others in the "making up" section. The instructions were changed on the computer, but the original wording was inadvertently left in place as well, so that there may be two conflicting instructions. The 4th row down in the Slipper Piece instructions may read like this on your pattern: ".....of bed on rows 15 and 40, ST. 40 ON ROW 69, and st. 50 on....." If so omit the phrase "ST. 40 ON ROW 69". the phrase "ST. 40 ON ROW 69".
Similarly the 6th row down in the Making Up instructions may read like this on your pattern: ".....50, THEN TO MARKER AT ROW 69. Continue along top seam............" If so change the 50 to 40 and omit the phrase THEN TO MARKER AT ROW 69. The line should read: ".....40. Continue along top seam.........."
Finally, continuing on from line 6, the 7th row down in the Making Up instructions should read: "until you reach the yarn marker at st 50, row 70."
After "knitting notes" under "Left (right) Back" instructions, the Note may be wrongly worded in your pattern as "RIGHT back - left edge of knitting is centre front, right edge is armhole edge. Opposite for LEFT back" . This should read:"LEFT back - left edge of knitting is centre front, right edge is armhole edge. Opposite for RIGHT back"
There is an inconsistency on the diagram for the curved front piece. The number of straight rows I have told you to knit don't add up to the next RC number. You will probably not have noticed this if you continued knitting straight to the next RC number, but the Japanese notation next to RC 57 may read like this on your pattern: "57:+1s37x1" That THIRTY-SEVEN should be FIFTY-THREE. The notation should read: "57:+1s53x1"
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